The Free Press
Shop Limited Edition Tough Love Merch
ForumNewslettersSign InSubscribe
Ancient Wisdom: I Didn’t Expect to End Up in Estonia
“Working in Moscow had been the major leagues, even if I wasn’t a franchise player. Tallinn was the Dayton Dragons,” writes Jim Heintz about the capital of Estonia. (Peter Forsberg/Alamy)
Studying the Estonian language requires niche devotion—it’s useless anywhere else. And an extrovert here is someone who looks at your shoes rather than his own. But it’s where I’m learning to age.
By Jim Heintz
11.09.25 — Ancient Wisdom
--:--
--:--
Upgrade to Listen
Produced by ElevenLabs using AI narration
134
391
READ IN APP
READ IN APP

Welcome back to Ancient Wisdom, our Sunday series in which writers over 70 tell us how they are aging gracefully. Last week, the poet Rebecca Okrent, 75, wrote a moving essay on the importance of late-life friendships. This week, Jim Heintz, 73, explains how he wound up in Estonia, and why he’s decided to grow old there.

On a vacation to South Africa in 2024, I amused myself by telling people that I came from Estonia. Their eyes narrowed and their lips compressed as they tried to remember where Estonia is and whether they should care. If they asked how life is there, I’d smile and say, “It’s the land of no sex and no future.”

That’s a linguistics wisecrack since the Estonian language has only past and present tenses, and pronouns aren’t gendered. The joke also has another layer for me; I’m trying to build a future here after my 40-year reporting career at the Associated Press came to an end only 18 months after being transferred here from my longtime home in Russia.


Read
Ancient Wisdom: What Friends Are For

I scrounged for a strategy to remain here before my legal residency, which was tied to my job, expired. I had four months to figure it out. The search’s difficulty was compounded by having to fight the paralyzing dismay—maybe self-pity is a better description—about losing a job that had always meant a lot to me. I was 73 years old, but retirement was not exactly in the cards.

Going back to the U.S. would be onerous financially and an emotional blow—expatriation can be great for an old-timer because life in a strange place demands your attention and keeps age-induced brain fog at a safe distance. I’d had a great life in Russia, but I couldn’t go back there, and returning to the U.S. after decades away wasn’t especially appealing.

Continue Reading The Free Press
To support our journalism, and unlock all of our investigative stories and provocative commentary about the world as it actually is, subscribe below.
Annual
$8.33/month
Billed as $100 yearly
Save $20!
Monthly
$10/month
Billed as $10 monthly
Already have an account?
Sign In
To read this article, sign in or subscribe
Jim Heintz
Jim Heintz was a reporter for The Associated Press for 40 years, including 24 in Moscow and three in Stockholm.
Tags:
Journalism
Europe
Media
Comments
Comments are closed. The conversation isn’t. Keep it going in The Free Press Forum.
Join the conversation
Share your thoughts and connect with other readers by becoming a paid subscriber!
Already a paid subscriber? Sign in

No posts

For Free People.
LatestSearchAboutCareersForumShopPodcastsVideoEvents
Download the app
Download on the Google Play Store
©2026 The Free Press. All Rights Reserved.Powered by Substack.
Privacy∙Terms∙Collection notice